What is an overlocker (serger), and do you need one?

What an overlocker (serger) does, how it differs from a sewing machine and when it is worth buying one for home sewing or a tailoring shop.

By My Sewing Mall
5 min read

Overlockers & Sergers Explained: Do You Need One? - My Sewing Mall

An overlocker, also called a serger, sews a seam, trims the extra fabric and wraps the raw edge in thread in one pass. It works next to your sewing machine and does not replace it. It is worth buying if you sew often or sew for customers.

Updated October 2026 by the My Sewing Mall team, Dubai.

Turn a shop-bought T-shirt inside out and look at the seams. The neat, thread-wrapped edge is the work of an overlocker.

Are an overlocker and a serger the same machine?

Yes. They are two names for the same machine. "Serger" is the usual word in the United States. "Overlocker" is more common in the UK and many other countries. In the UAE you will hear both words.

How is an overlocker different from a sewing machine?

A sewing machine joins fabric with a straight or zigzag stitch. It uses two threads, one from the needle and one from the bobbin.

An overlocker has no bobbin. Two loopers wrap thread around the fabric edge, and a built-in blade trims the edge as you sew. Differential feed moves the fabric with two sets of feed dogs at different speeds, so stretch fabric does not wave. Overlockers also sew fast, which is why tailors and factories use them every day.

Feature Overlocker Sewing machine
Main job Seams and clean edges General sewing
Threads 3, 4 or 5 2 (needle and bobbin)
Cuts the fabric edge Yes, built-in blade No
Stretch fabric Easy, with differential feed Needs a zigzag or stretch stitch
Zips, buttonholes, topstitching No Yes

What jobs does an overlocker do?

  • Sews a seam and covers the raw edge at the same time, so the seam does not fray
  • Finishes the edges of seams sewn on a normal machine, such as the inside seams of an abaya
  • Makes rolled hems: a narrow, wrapped edge for shaylas, scarves and light fabric
  • Sews jersey, lycra and other knits without wavy seams

What do 3-thread, 4-thread and 5-thread mean?

The number tells you how many threads build the stitch. More threads usually give a stronger seam. Most home overlockers can sew both 3-thread and 4-thread stitches.

  • 3-thread uses one needle and two loopers. It is good for finishing edges, light seams and rolled hems.
  • 4-thread adds a second needle for an extra line of stitching. The seam is stronger, so it is the usual choice for sewing knit garments.
  • 5-thread adds a separate chain stitch beside the overlock edge. It gives very strong seams on woven fabric and is common on industrial machines.

What is a coverstitch machine?

A coverstitch machine has loopers like an overlocker, but no blade. It sews two or three parallel rows of stitches on top, with a looper thread underneath. You see this stitch on the hems of T-shirts and sportswear. It stretches with the fabric, so the hem does not break when you pull it.

Use an overlocker to sew and finish seams, and a coverstitch machine to hem knits. Our coverstitch machines are industrial models for T-shirt and sportswear production.

Do you need an overlocker if you already have a sewing machine?

You can make good clothes with only a sewing machine. A zigzag stitch over the raw edge stops most fraying. An overlocker is worth buying if one of these sounds like you:

  • You sew every week and want inside seams that look like shop-bought clothes.
  • Your seams wave or break when you sew jersey or other stretch fabric.
  • You sew abayas or do alterations for customers and need the same neat finish every time.
  • You want to save time. Overlocking an edge is much faster than a zigzag on every seam.

Should you buy a home or an industrial overlocker?

A home overlocker is light and fits on a normal table. It suits home sewing and small orders. Our range includes home overlockers from Janome and Brother.

An industrial overlocker is built to sew for many hours every day. It suits tailoring shops and garment factories. We sell industrial overlockers from Juki and Jack. You can compare them all in our overlocker and serger machines range, or read our guide to home and industrial sewing machines.

Frequently asked questions

Can I sew a whole abaya with only an overlocker?

No. You still need a sewing machine for zips, buttonholes and topstitching. The overlocker finishes the inside seams so they stay neat after washing. Our guide to abaya and kandura sewing machines helps you choose the main machine.

Which needles does an overlocker use?

Many home overlockers use standard home sewing machine needles. Industrial overlockers use a different needle system. Check your manual, or send us the model on WhatsApp and we will tell you which needle fits.

Is an overlocker hard to thread?

It takes more steps than a sewing machine, because it uses three to five threads. Many home models have colour-coded thread paths on the machine. Follow the order in your manual every time.

Do you deliver overlockers outside Dubai?

Yes, to all 7 emirates. You see the fee at checkout before you pay. To Dubai, Sharjah and Ajman, industrial overlockers are delivered free. Home overlockers are free there on orders of AED 1,500 or more, and AED 30 below that. You can also collect your order free from our location in Sharjah Industrial Area 4.

Can I pay in instalments?

Yes. Tabby is available at checkout, so you can pay in 4 with no interest.

Is there a warranty?

All our machines come with a one-year warranty. We repair and service industrial overlockers from Juki and Jack. Sorry, we no longer service home overlockers. If a home overlocker you bought from us breaks in the first year, bring it to our location in Sharjah Industrial Area 4 and we fix it there.

How to get help choosing

Our Machine Finder asks a few questions and suggests machines that fit your work. You can also message us on WhatsApp or call +971 56 998 9415. Tell us what you sew and how many pieces a week, and we can help you choose between a home and an industrial overlocker.