Which sewing machine needle and thread should I use?

Pick the needle point for the type of fabric, then the size for its weight. Chiffon needs a fine 60/8 or 70/10 needle, everyday cotton an 80/12, and denim a 100/16 or 110/18. The thread must pass easily through the needle eye, so finer thread goes with a smaller needle.

Updated October 2026 by the My Sewing Mall team, Dubai.

How are sewing machine needles sized?

A needle packet shows two numbers, such as 80/12 or 90/14. The first is the metric size (NM). It is the blade width in hundredths of a millimetre, so an 80 needle is 0.80 mm across. The second number is the US (Singer) size of the same needle.

The bigger the number, the thicker and stronger the needle. Needles for home machines usually run from 60/8 (very fine) to 110/18 (heavy).

Which needle type do you need?

Needles of the same size differ in the shape of the point and the eye.

• A universal needle has a slightly rounded point. It sews most woven fabrics and some knits. An 80/12 universal is the most useful needle to keep at home.
• A ballpoint (jersey) needle has a round tip. It slides between the loops of jersey and other knits, so the fabric does not run.
• A sharp (Microtex) needle has a very thin point. Use it on silk, microfibre, chiffon and nida, and for straight topstitching.
• A denim (jeans) needle has a strong blade and a sharp point. It goes through denim and canvas without bending or breaking.
• A leather needle has a cutting point shaped like a wedge. Use it only on real leather and heavy vinyl. It damages other fabrics.
• An embroidery needle has a larger eye and a lightly rounded point. It stops rayon and polyester embroidery thread from shredding at high speed.

Which needle system does your machine use?

Each machine takes one needle system. The wrong system can upset the hook timing and cause skipped stitches.

• Most home machines, including Brother, Janome and Singer, use one flat-shank system. It is called 130/705H, HAx1 or 15x1. These are three names for the same needle.
• Single-needle industrial lockstitch machines, including many Juki, Brother and Jack models, use DBx1 needles with a round shank. You may also see DBx1 written as 16x257 or 16x231.
• DPx5 (also called 134 or 135x5) is used on some heavier industrial machines, such as bar-tack machines.

Industrial overlockers and other special machines use other systems, so check the manual or the old needle packet first.

Organ is a Japanese needle maker. We sell Organ needles for home and industrial systems, including HAx1 and DBx1. See our Organ needle range and all our sewing machine needles.

Which needle suits your fabric?

When should you change the needle?

Needles wear out. Fit a new one:

• after about 6 to 8 hours of sewing, or before a big job
• when you hear a popping sound as the needle enters the fabric (the tip is blunt)
• after the needle hits a pin or a thick seam
• when stitches skip, or the thread snags or shreds, and rethreading does not fix it

Which thread should you use?

• Polyester thread is strong and stretches a little. Use it for most sewing, including knits and stretch fabric.
• Cotton thread is soft and has little stretch. It suits cotton and linen, but it is a poor choice for knits.
• Rayon and polyester embroidery threads are shiny. Rayon has a brighter shine, and embroidery polyester is stronger and keeps its colour better.

Thread weight is shown as a wt number. A higher number means a finer thread, so 50wt is finer than 40wt. Machine embroidery normally uses 40wt, and 50wt is common for general sewing. The Tex system works the other way: a higher Tex number means a thicker thread. See our embroidery threads.

How do you pair needle and thread?

The thread must move freely through the needle eye. Common pairs are:

• 50wt thread with a 70/10 or 80/12 needle
• 40wt embroidery thread with a 75/11 to 90/14 embroidery needle
• thick topstitching thread with a topstitch needle, or a 90/14 to 100/16

If the thread frays or shreds, the eye is probably too small. Try one needle size up before you change the thread.

What problems does the wrong needle cause?

Skipped stitches usually mean a blunt or bent needle, or the wrong point, such as a universal needle on knits. Holes or runs in knit fabric also mean you need a ballpoint. Puckered seams on fine fabric come from a needle that is too big, or from tension that is too high. If a needle breaks on denim, it is too fine. Use a denim needle in 100/16 or bigger.

Frequently asked questions

Which needle should I use for chiffon or nida abayas?

Use a fine, sharp (Microtex) needle in size 60/8 or 70/10, with fine thread. Our guide to abaya and kandura sewing machines has more tips for these fabrics.

Do Organ needles fit home sewing machines?

Yes, if your machine takes the HAx1 system. Organ makes HAx1 needles, the flat-shank system most home machines use. Your manual may call it 130/705H, HAx1 or 15x1.

Which needle does a Juki or Jack lockstitch machine use?

Many Juki and Jack single-needle lockstitch machines use DBx1 needles. Check your manual, because some models use a different system.

Can I use a home needle in an industrial machine?

Usually not. Home needles have a flat shank, and most industrial machines take a round shank. Use the system written in your manual.

My machine still skips stitches with a new needle. What should I do?

Rethread the machine and check the needle system first. If the problem stays, the machine may need a service. We service industrial sewing machines and embroidery machines. Sorry, we no longer service home sewing machines or home overlockers. See our repairs and maintenance contracts.

How to get help choosing

We can help you find the right needle system. Send a photo of your machine or the old needle packet to us on WhatsApp at +971 56 998 9415. If you are choosing a new machine, our Machine Finder asks a few questions and suggests machines.